A rainy day in Zagreb reveals a completely different Croatia — not the postcard-perfect one with azure shores and stone cities, but a more intimate, northern Croatia, where a special beauty hides behind the raindrops. And if elsewhere rain is a reason for gloom, in the Croatian capital it becomes an occasion to take out a true work of art from the closet — the famous Šestine umbrella.
Croatia is a country of contrasts not only in landscapes but also in weather. While most tourists rush to the sunny Adriatic coast during summer months, locals know that the true soul of the country reveals itself in the changing seasons. The continental part of Croatia welcomes all four seasons in their full glory — with snow-covered roofs in winter, exuberant blossoms in spring, golden vineyards in autumn, and of course, rainy days that occur year-round.
These bright umbrellas with their characteristic red-white-blue pattern have long become a symbol of Zagreb. They can be seen on souvenirs, postcards, and even at the Dolac city market, where the stalls are sheltered by miniature versions of these umbrellas. But few know that behind each such umbrella stands a century-old tradition and the hands of a master.
On Ilica Street, one of the oldest in Zagreb, nestles the modest Cerovečki workshop — the last of eight umbrella workshops that once existed in the city. Here, Thomislav Cerovečki, a representative of the fourth generation of umbrella master craftsmen in his family, continues the tradition that began back in 1912.
The history of the Šestine pattern is remarkable in itself — originally Spanish, it traveled across Europe with Napoleon's armies until it took root in the northern regions of Croatia. Today, this pattern is not just a decoration but recognized intangible cultural heritage of the country.
The workshop smells of wood and fabric. Each umbrella is handcrafted — from assembling the frame to sewing the fabric. This craftsmanship requires patience: no rushing, only attention to detail and respect for traditions. There is no concept of mass production here — each umbrella is unique, though it follows age-old canons.
When you walk along the wet streets of Zagreb and see these bright domes with traditional patterns above the heads of passersby, you understand that rain in Croatia is not just a weather phenomenon but part of the cultural code, an opportunity to demonstrate one's connection to traditions.
Winter in Zagreb is a special time. The Christmas market is considered one of the best in Europe, and when it snows, the old streets of the upper town of Gradec transform into a true fairy tale. And even when the snow gives way to drizzling rain, the city doesn't lose its charm — the colorful domes of Šestine umbrellas open above the heads of passersby, bringing life to the gray winter landscape with bright spots.
Spring in continental Croatia is capricious — sunny days suddenly give way to pouring rains. But even then, Croatians don't despair. "We have a saying: there's no bad weather, only unsuitable clothing... or umbrella," locals joke, opening bright Šestine umbrellas above their heads, which seem to have absorbed all the colors of spring fields.
Autumn brings frequent rains and morning fogs, but there's charm in this too. Zagreb's cafes fill with people seeking shelter from the weather over a cup of aromatic coffee. And afterward, when the rain temporarily subsides, the streets bloom with colorful umbrellas — people hurry about their business, knowing that at any moment the sky might cry again.
Perhaps this is why Croatians don't rush to hide from the rain. After all, bad weather is just an excuse to take out a beautiful item with history from the closet, which not only protects from the weather but also reminds of the continuity of generations and the value of craftsmanship in an era of mass production.
"For me, each umbrella is not just a product but a continuation of my family's tradition," says Thomislav, carefully assembling another Šestine masterpiece. "When I see people on Zagreb's streets with our umbrellas, I feel pride — it means our culture lives on, despite all-consuming globalization."
Tourists who come to Croatia in the off-season discover a completely different country — not the one on postcards with crowded beaches and tourist yachts. They see the real Croatia, with its traditions, crafts, and special attitude toward life, where even on the gloomiest day, one can find a reason for joy — at least in the form of a bright umbrella overhead. Heritage in the Raindrops: The Art of Umbrellas When you hold such an umbrella in your hands, you understand — it's not just an accessory but a true artifact, a piece of culture that you can take with you to carry the history of an entire country through a rainy day.
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