Hum is the smallest city in the world, located in the center of Istria, with barely 55 inhabitants.
Hum includes preserved city walls, two small streets, and three rows of houses. Incidentally, many regard the Vatican City as the smallest city in the world. In fact, the Vatican City is a sovereign state, so it’s actually a country!
Today, Hum is a city-monument, one of the rare examples of urban development within city walls. The city of Hum was formed in the 11th century when the first houses were built. At that time, Istria belonged to the Frankish Empire. Count Ulrich I both built and rebuilt several castles in the empire, including the ones in Hum.
In 1102, Ulrich II gave Hum to the Patriarch of Aquileia, marking the first time Hum was mentioned by name. For the next 500 years or so, Hum remained under the control of the Patriarchate of Aquileia, during which it was referred to as a city-fort.
Even now, Hum is a rare example of urban development within its early medieval walls. The castle was built inside the defensive walls, and the settlement was constructed beside the castle. The settlement has always remained within the city walls since the 11th century, and no new buildings have been constructed outside the walls.
Houses were built in three parallel sequences, extending from east to west. The castle is connected to all parts of the tiny city’s two streets. Houses in all three sequences face the streets. This layout enabled the quick arrival of the military as well as the speedy evacuation of citizens to the castle in case of emergency.
Between the 12th and 15th centuries, art flourished in Hum. The Chapel of Saint Jeronim was painted with frescoes. In the 17th century, when Hum was under Venetian control, the defensive walls were restored, and two towers, double city doors, a city lodge, and other administrative buildings were constructed.
Throughout history, Hum often suffered from conflicts, robberies, and war campaigns. Its fortification system was frequently demolished and rebuilt. The city’s current appearance was completed in the 19th century when the Church of Saints Peter and Paul was built.
According to legend, Hum was constructed from the stones left over when giants were building towns in the Mirna River valley, an area in central Istria that includes wonderful hill towns such as Motovun, Roc, and Bale. Despite its small number of residents, Hum has preserved the old ritual of the "Election of the Prefect for a Year," where all the men from the parish gather at the Municipal Loggia (town hall) to elect the village leader by carving their votes into a wooden stick.
Hum is also the final point of the famous monument complex known as the Glagolitic Lane, commemorating the importance of Glagolitic literature. The lane stretches for 7 km from Roč to Hum.
Although Hum is the smallest city in the world, it is rich with many monuments:
Humske Freske (Frescoes of Hum):
Unique pieces of art that can’t be found anywhere else in Istria and surrounding areas. Painted in the second half of the 12th century in the Romanesque Chapel of Saint Jeronim, these paintings depict scenes from the life of Jesus Christ, including the Last Supper, the Deposition from the Cross, and His Passion.
2. Main City Gate: The main entrance to the city of Hum was built between the 11th and 12th centuries, receiving its final appearance in 1562. In 1981, new copper doors with large handrails in the shape of ox horns were installed.
3. Lapidary: The lapidary includes three Glagolitic inscriptions from Hum.
4. Polača: The place where citizens discussed public matters related to Hum and the surrounding area.
5.Bell Tower: Built in 1552.
6. City Lodge and County Table: Since the 16th century, the citizens of Hum have elected their prefect at the city lodge and county table. This custom was revived in 1977 and still continues today. It is known as "biranje župana na leto dan" (election of the prefect for one year).
7. Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary: This baroque church was built in 1802 on the site of an older church. It contains special silver and gilded liturgical vessels and glasses.
8. Gallery of Hum: The gallery contains a collection of traditional Istrian household furniture and agricultural tools.
Humska Biska
Apart from being famous for being the smallest city in the world, Hum has also gained popularity for biska, a brandy spiced with mistletoe and made according to an old recipe originating from Hum. Every year at the end of October, the Grappa Festival takes place here, showcasing brandy producers from all over Istria. In 2005, Hum was declared the city of biska, which is a great honor in Croatia. Humska biska is a traditional rakija made of komovica, white mistletoe (bijela imela), and four types of medicinal herbs. It is made according to a 2,000-year-old recipe from the ancient Celts, who considered white mistletoe a sacred plant.
Humska biska is used as a natural remedy against atherosclerosis and also supports the regulation of blood pressure. You can try it only in an authentic Hum konoba (tavern). This original recipe is the legacy of Hum’s pastor Josip Vidal.
There is a traditional rakija festival called Smotra Istarskih Rakija (Review of Istrian Rakijas) that takes place in Hum every autumn in October. In 2021, this festival was organized for the 21st time. Most Istrian rakija producers prepare it according to traditional Istrian recipes, which you can sample at the festival.
The most common Istrian rakija is made from grape pomace (grožđani trop or komina) and aromatic herbs or fruits. This type of rakija is called komovica.
The two most popular types of komovica are:
Ruda – made from the herb of the same name.
Biska - It is a blend of apple distillate and carefully selected mistletoe leaves prepared according to a traditional recipe. Traditionally Biska is made in Istria, but the original recipe comes from the Celts who lived on the Istrian peninsula and is about two thousand years old.
The residents have preserved the ancient authenticity of Hum while keeping the village livable for its residents, including several children in their count.
During a trip to Hum, you will find various fantastic delicatessen shops where you can try delicious truffle specialties, local wines, liqueurs, and brandies produced in the region.
Tip: You can enjoy fantastic Istrian cuisine, such as delicious fuži, pršut, and truffle dishes, at Humska Konoba, the only restaurant in Hum!
The area of Hum and nearby villages is a perfect place for history explorers and nature lovers. Hum with its beautiful fortification, stone streets, squares, church and its surroundings are a perfect place for exploring Istrian cultural heritage.
Combine a day trip to Hum with visits to some of the neighboring hill towns such as Draguc, Groznjan, or Motovun. Also worth visiting in the immediate vicinity is the small, picturesque village of Kotli, which has experienced a revival after being completely desolate and is known for its charming water mills and waterfall. This uninhabited village attracts visitors with its beautiful nature, primarily the waterfalls and natural ‘pools’ with turquoise-colored water. These ‘pools’ were formed by the Mirna River, which carved out the limestone, giving the village its name.
Due to its isolation, Kotli has preserved its rural appearance from the end of the 19th century. Of the former 60 mills, only one is still functional. You can take a bath in the natural pools, but keep in mind that during the summer, the riverbed may be dry, so if you’re hoping for a water spray, visit Kotli in spring or autumn. Above the village, there is a tavern where you can taste Istrian dishes while enjoying the beautiful view.II
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