Istrian olive oil
One of the things about Istria living here is the quality of life. ‘Quality of life’ can mean many different things but here is basic things like the quality of the air, water and food. There is no air pollution here, the tap water does not have to be purified to be drunk (and it doesn’t have a bad taste!), and it’s easy to get good, natural produce.
Local people do not like to buy store-bought vegetables and try to grow as much of their own food as possible. Nor do they spray their produce with any type of pesticide but try to grow it chemical-free. They don’t even use the word ‘organic’ or ‘bio’ because they grow their food the same way they’ve been growing it for decades before those ‘modern’ words existed. Locals simply say “I don’t spray”, to mean that they don’t use chemical pesticides.
Many people here have olive groves and cultivate olives for their own olive oil production. Istrian olive oil is an absolute delight – pure heaven in a bottle! There are many different varieties of olives grown here, each of which produces an oil with its own subtle flavors. Below you can find more information:
The olive harvest in Istria happens usually in October or November, depending on weather conditions. Like grape harvesting, olive picking is usually a big family affair, where friends join in too, since the olives are picked by hand. Once they’re picked they must be taken to the local oil mill within 24 hours. Freshly pressed olive oil has a beautiful greenish color and not the golden yellow color that store-bought olive oil has. The taste is divine.
Istrian olive oil is unique for many reasons:
- It’s produced by small family producers who make olive oil for their own consumption and then sell any excess oil to their friends and neighbors.
- It’s extracted by mechanical and not chemical means.
- It is not refined or industrially treated and is unadulterated, i.e. not mixed with other different types of lower grade oils (which is the case of store-bought oils).
Since it’s cold-pressed only once, it has a high concentration of polyphenols, which are considered to be antioxidants and beneficial for health and longevity.
It’s expensive! The olive oil you can buy from family producers costs two times more than store-bought extra virgin olive oil – but it is worth every single euro because of all the above reasons.
From north to south, Istria’s verdant landscape is painted with neat rows of olive groves. The olive tree is a symbol of the Mediterranean identity of this peninsula tucked in the north Adriatic Sea. It also hints at an agricultural heritage with a Roman past. Istria’s olive oils were highly valued even in the time of the Roman Empire. Marcus Valerius Martial, writer of epigrams who lived in the first century, paid tribute to Istria’s olive oils by exclaiming that his native Cordoba was “as perfect as the oil of Istria”.
The peninsula of Istria is shared by three countries. The majority (90%) of its geographical territory falls in Croatia, while a north-western strip belongs to Slovenia, and its northernmost tip reaches up almost to Trieste in Italy. This is the northern edge of the fertile Mediterranean Basin and thanks to the proximity of the sea, the climate is mild and ideal for olive growing.
Relics of a Roman past
A 1600-year-old olive tree is one of the many attractions of Veliki Brijun island which lies just off Istria’s south-west coast. This majestic tree is also a relic of Istria’s long olive oil tradition. So are the terracotta amphorae preserved in the basement of the 1st century Roman amphitheater in Pula, in the south of the peninsula. Inscribed with the Latin words “Olei Histrici” (Istrian oil) or “Olei flos” (first press oil), these were used to transport olive oil by ship across the Roman empire.
While olive oil was an important source of income back in Roman times, its production gradually declined in the region before experiencing a more recent renaissance of sorts. Over the past three decades, the olive oil industry in Istria has quickly developed. In 1994, the peninsula counted 350,000 olive trees and three oil mills, while today there are over 1.8 million trees growing here and at least 30 mills in operation.
Regional investments and incentives designed to encourage olive production provided the impetus for this growth. While olive oil production in Istria has increased in recent years, it remains modest compared to olive-growing regions in the European Union’s biggest producing countries, such as Spain and Greece.
Quality not quantity would best describe Istria’s olive oil production. Most olive growers and oil producers here are small family-run businesses with an eye on producing a high-quality product. They have adopted modern-day production and processing techniques, and harvest their olives by hand in early fall, just as the drupes are starting to turn purple, to ensure a high phenolic content. Processed within 24 hours at low temperatures, the result is extra virgin olive oil with fruity notes that are pleasing to the palate. Some of Istria’s native olive varieties include istarska bjelica, buža, karbonaca, črnica, žižol.
Of course, a region’s unique terroir also influences the fruits of its soil. Istrian olive oil is high in health-boosting mono-unsaturated oleic acid, as well as polyphenols, the powerful antioxidants that fight disease-causing free radicals.
Marketed as “high polyphenol organic extra virgin olive oil”, award-winning oils are made by pressing olives while they are still green and unripe in order to preserve as high a concentration of polyphenols as possible.
Since 2019, olive oil produced in the Slovenian and Croatian parts of Istria has its own “Protected Designation of Origin” (PDO) at the EU level. “Istarsko ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje” (Istrian extra virgin olive oil) or “Istra” (the Croatian and Slovenian name for Istria) is the appellation you can find on a bottle of Istrian olive oil that guarantees its origin and authenticity.
Producers in Slovenia and Croatia have won numerous international awards from around the globe attesting to the high quality of their extra virgin olive oils. Istria is also firmly on the map as an important olive region with over 100 high-quality producers. The Flos Olei olive oil guide has named it the “World’s Best Olive Region” for the past eight years.
The best to get to know Istria’s exquisite extra virgin olive oil is of course to taste it. Just like wine tourism, olive oil tourism has exploded in Istria. Many olive farms offer the chance for a guided tour of their groves followed by an expert-led tasting experience in their on-site tasting rooms. Green signs marked “Cesta Maslinova Ulja” (Olive Oil Road) point the way to local olive oil makers across the peninsula.
All the oils feature distinct flavors and vary from gold to green hues. Bjelica is istrian, autochthonous and recognizable by the fact that the Istrian olive oil is beautiful, green, with the smell of green grass, olive, radicchio, artichoke, in the mouth it is fruity, a little bitter, and at the end it has that recognizable spicy aftertaste.”
It could be paired this native cultivar with grilled red meat, aged cheese, Istrian maneštra (a Croatian take on the minestrone soup), and with chocolate desserts, including ice cream and mousse.
6 things about Istrian olive oil
As stated by Greek mythology tales, the olive tree was created in the following way: in her contest with Poseidon, God of the sea, Athena cast a drop of water on the cliff, and immediately an olive tree grew therein.
Throughout the past centuries Istria has been marked by the olive tree, and here are things about Istrian olive oil:
1. Olives are a symbol of Istria since circa 50 AD. There are written proofs saying ancient Greeks and Romans were delighted with the quality of Istrian olive oil. Moreover, Istrian olive oil served as a benchmark for olive oils at the time. It’s no wonder Istria abounds in historic olive oil mills (toklarija in Istrian dialect).
Some of them are actually still in pretty good shape and are turned into restaurants.
2. Let us walk you through the olive oil production process. First, you clean the olives, and then you crush them in a paste and mix for around half an hour with a mechanical mixer in order for oil droplets to start forming which results in olive oil extraction.
Finally, you separate the olive oil from the wet olive paste. Once you have your olive oil, it’s time to classify it into extra virgin olive oil (EVVO), virgin olive oil, olive oil, and sansa oil. EVVO contains no more than 0,8 and no less than 0,2 of unsaturated fatty acids. Istrian olive oils are known for their extra virgin quality and a high percentage of polyphenols that act as antioxidants.
3. It turns out that a somewhat cooler climate like the one in Istria generally does well to olives. Oils from these geographical locations are more aromatic and healthier as they have high levels of unsaturated fatty acids and antioxidants.
To prove we are truly an “old world” regarding olive oil; let us name a few indigenous Istrian olive varietals: buža, oblica, istarska bjelica, rosinjola, crnica. Nowadays, Istria again has around twenty-something olive oil mills that produce around 200 – 450 tons of olive oil (and growing), which makes around 10% of Croatian production.
4. It is important to know that the flavor of olive oil depends on the variety of olives, ripeness, growing conditions (geographical location, micro climate and soil composition).
For example, buža olive oil is sweet, full of flavor and mild odor; bjelica is bitter and picante with a strong leafy nose; rosinjola is all in all a very balanced olive oil in terms of mouth and nose.
5. Flos Olei, the only extra virgin olive oil guidebook in the world, selected Istria as the best olive region in the world. This is no wonder since in the 2016 edition Istria is the region with the biggest number of listed olive oil producers – 50 of them. Just as a comparison, in 2005 there were only 2 olive oil producers from Istria.
Have you tried Istrian olive oil? Which variety is your favorite? Istria stands out as a truly remarkable region, offering stunning landscapes and a rich cultural heritage. Tasting the finest olive oils while surrounded by nature isn't just about enjoying the flavors; It is also about stepping into the heart of the region and uncovering its tradition.
Prepare for a unique gastronomy journey and meeting the locals while learning more about the history of Istria and its traditions!
If you would like to visit olive farms and taste high-quality olive oil, here are few links.
Oio VivoIstrian olive oil- heaven in the bottle
Between Pula and Vodnjan, located only 5 km from the Adriatic sea, lies Oio Vivo - the largest olive grove in southern Istria! Their land is home to more than 15,000 olive trees, producing 6 unique types of extra virgin olive oil.
As you explore their olive groves on a guided tour, you'll get to taste their oils paired with traditional homemade Istrian small bites.
Don't forget to try their awarded extra virgin olive oils:
Vodnjanska Buža
Rozinjola
Žižolera
Welcome to the Ipša Olive Fields, where Klaudio and Irena have been cultivating olive trees since the late 90’s!
Over time, their small home became an olive paradise spanning 17 hectares of olive groves. Inside you can explore their oil mill, cellar, tasting rooms and Istrian tavern where you can enjoy many famous local dishes!
Ipša famous organic oils you need to try:
Frantoio
Leccino
Selekcija
Meet the Chiavalon family, artisans of fine olive oil!
This family heritage is well-known for ecological production that blends old customs with modern technology ensuring top quality.
While relaxing amongst 9,000 olive trees and enjoying the flavors of award-winning oils, you'll discover more about their family business and the land's history.
Chiavalon olive oils you must try:
Istra
Ex Albis
Atilio
Nono Remiđo
Another award-winning olive oils you should try are the one named after the Vanđelić grandfather, Nono Remiđo.
Their estate is located in the western Istria between Bale and Rovinj. On the land that covers 60 hectares of olive groves and other fruit trees, you will find friendly farm animals, an oil mill, a tasting spot and a cellar.
To produce top-quality extra virgin olive oil, the family handpicks olives during the early harvest to maintain freshness. After handpicking, olives are taken to the oil mill for cold pressing, preserving their natural flavors.
Olive oils recommended by Flos Olei:
Finide
Buža
Rosinjola
In the small village of Crveni Vrh in northwestern Istria, the Monte Rosso olive estate waits to be discovered.
Since 2006, their home has grown into a diverse agricultural land with over 14,000 olive trees, more than 50,000 grapevines, and plenty of fruit trees.
As you wander through the olive groves and vineyards, you'll experience the authentic taste of Istria. Take a moment to relax and enjoy tasting olive oils surrounded by pure nature.
Olive oils you should try:
Grand Selection
Grand Selection Platinum
Casa Blend
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